Fashion Forecast: June 1917

What was the well-dressed young woman wearing in June 1917?

June being the month it is, she might have been wearing white and carrying a bouquet. Here are a couple of pages of bridal fashion from McCall’s Magazine:

And from The Delineator. Anyone who has purchased a wedding gown in the recent (or not so recent) past might be amused (or enraged) by this extract from the description: “This bridal costume can be made for $7.94 in a medium size. It requires 2 7/8 yards silk crêpe 40 inches wide at $1.00, 3 ¼ yards satin 40 inches wide at $1.25, findings, trimming, pattern, .99. It will take about 12 bunches of beads at .30.”:

Some spectacular millinery is in evidence on this page from The Delineator...but even more interesting is the bloomer dress second from the right. Here’s the description: "The next step in the woman movement is the bloomer dress (design 9235). All women who both “spin and toil” will find this a very comfortable and serviceable garment that is attractive as well. If you would sprinkle the lawn or clean out the attic you might as well be practical about it as well as feminine. The soft fulness from the yoke, front and back is pretty, and if you are to lose yourself in dust why not turn up the convertible collar for protection and use a longer sleeve and cover the whole question with a sensible cap. Of course you need not have the pockets. Use gingham, percale, chambray, or Japanese crêpe." Note that she’s wielding a vacuum cleaner hose!

June also means the start of—you guessed it—bathing suit weather. Here’s a sight you won’t see in Ackermann’s! Recommended fabrics, by the way, include satin, taffeta, silk poplin, shantung, wool jersey, and mohair. Yessiree—a mohair bathing suit. Note that several are worn with stockings, though not all—and the young lady at left has hers daringly rolled half-way down her calves. (The Delineator):

An interesting silhouette you’ll see a lot this year is displayed in the dress at left in this page from McCall’s: it was known as “barrel” style, for obvious reasons:

Here are a few more general dress images, to give you a flavor of what was in (hint: parasols, do ya think?) From The Delineator:

The Delineator, again (love these color images!) Note the sheer blouses, or "waists" that require some of the products we learned about back in January:

  

And McCall's (the outfit at far right is definitely in the barrel style):

McCall's again:

June is graduation month as well, and McCall’s had a selection of charming dresses (in white, of course) for graduating young ladies:

More teen fashions from The Delineator:

And more, also from The Delineator:

What do you think of June 1917’s fashions?

Fashion Forecast: 1828, part 2

What was the well-dressed young woman wearing in the second half of 1828?

This Morning Dress from July’s Ackermann’s Repository features the lowered pointed waist that will be all the rage for the next few years, as well as gathered puffed sleeves and wide ribbon ornamentation around the hem. Her jewelry—necklace, earrings, and bracelets—might be coral, and her hair is dressed in puffs and loops around a matching headdress. A very handsome ensemble, I think:

The date on this Carriage Dress may be August 1828, but don’t the large hat and almost leg-o-mutton type sleeves make this look like something from the 1890s? Note the skirt decorated with multi-colored rosettes, the lacing detail on the lower sleeves, the ruffled collar, and of course, that very large (and nicely shady) straw hat, perfect for an afternoon drive (Ackermann’s Repository):

Here’s a charming Evening Dress, also from August’s Ackermann’s. The white gauze overskirt above a blue underskirt is decorated with blue ribbon and nosegays of roses, the pointed Gothic bodice features a lace-up detail, and the sleeves are gathered gauze over blue. Very charming, topped with a coiffure of ringlets with ostrich feathers and puffs of pink ribbon:

I have the original text for this Morning Dress: Jaconet muslin dress, made as high as the throat, where it is finished with a narrow band, confining the fullness of the body; a small circular cape, drawn with blue satin ribbon, and trimmed with work half a quarter deep, commences in front of the shoulder and extends across the back: the sleeves are à la Gabrielle, being full above the elbow, and below confined by three drawings to the shape of the arm. The skirt is set on with equal fullness all around, and has a flounce half a yard deep, headed by a trimming composed of a rouleau adorned with demi-whorls, made of book muslin, gathered very full, and edged with blue braiding; a second whorl trimming divides the flounce half way: blue satin cestus [a type of belt] pointed in front. Provincial French cap of tulle made of one piece, and drawn full round the head: it is greatly elevated, and falls back from the summit in two divisions like lappets, the ends trimmed with blond lace, and reaching as low as the shoulder: bows of blue satin ribbon are tastefully dispersed; and the border, being very full, forms a rosette in front, and bows of blue satin ribbon intermingle with the curls of hair around the face. Earrings and necklace of rock coral; broad Grecian scroll bracelets of gold. Rose-colour gloves; blue corded silk shoes. (Ackermann’s Repository, September):

This print may be from October, but these aren’t Halloween masks...they’re millinery! Big hats were definitely in fashion as we can see, from the pinked-edge ruffles on the upper left to the large loops of fabric and gauze on both hats on the right. And, of course, ostrich plumes! (Ackermann’s Repository):

Again, this Evening Dress reminds me of something from a much later decade with its puffed sleeves, button-front bodice, and full skirt. The gatherings on the ruffles of the skirt are fun and must have fluttered delightfully when the wearer walked. I also like the Chinese fan and the less silly hairstyle, with its coronet of braids woven with pearls and hanging curls at back (Ackermann’s Repository, October):

This quietly dramatic Dinner Dress quite caught my fancy: I like the very full but plain skirt (of course, no one would see it under a table during dinner, right?) and neckline decorated with simple tongues of fabric. The sleeves are small puffs of the same fabric, covered with very sheer gauze, and the headdress a handsome white and blue-striped turban decorate with ostrich plumes. This November Ackermann’s print gets my vote!

This is an interesting print not just because the Evening Dress it depicts is so striking—yellow figured satin with white piping on the bodice and red on the ruched ruffles on the skirt, as well as nosegays of red and white roses—but because from here (December) on until Ackermann’s ceases publication the following year, the fashion illustration style begins to change. You’ll still see some of the same meticulous artwork in next year’s prints, but also several done in a less detailed and realistic style.

What do you think of the second half of 1828’s fashions?

Fashion Forecast 1827, Part 1

What was the well-dressed young woman wearing in the first half of 1827?

January 5 saw the death of Frederick Duke of York, Prinny’s younger brother—which meant mourning at court for the fashionable population. But no one ever said that black had to be boring…and it certainly isn’t in this stunning Opera Costume (Ackermann’s Repository). Though I must say that if I were at the opera, I would not want to be sitting behind anyone wearing a hat like that!

I find the sleeves on this Evening Dress from March’s Ackermann’s Repository fascinating, shaped as they are on wire or bone. Note the plaid shawl: the mania for things Scottish was still in full swing:

Here’s a Carriage Dress in sunny yellow for April, with some ornate applique decoration down the front of the skirt, a deep, lace-edged collar that presages the enormous pelerines to come into fashion in just a couple of years, and gauze oversleeves. Note that her hat is half blue, half yellow—and that its long ribbon ties are also blue on one side, yellow on the other! (Ackermann’s Repository):

Also from April Ackermann’s is a pink Ball Dress with an appliqued overskirt—perhaps muslin over pink satin?—and puff sleeves decorated with free-standing petals. Her gloves are ruffle-edged (I love these!) and her dancing slippers lace up the ankles, a la ballet shoe. Note the heavily curled hairstyle—common this year and into next:

Here’s a total confection of an Evening Dress from May’s Ackermann’s: lace flounces at the pouffed hem and making up the puffed sleeves, geometric applique topped the lace flounce, reminiscent of the angular sleeves back in March’s dress, more ruffled gloves (yay!), and a hat of truly heroic proportions, featuring a lot of ostrich plumes: I can’t tell if the jeweled band in front is a separate tiara, or part of the millinery. And then that flame-colored fan setting it all off—very attention-getting!

Big hats were definitely the thing this year, as we can see from this Morning Dress from May’s Lady’s Magazine, complete with original description: A high gown of lavender-colored gros de Naples, with two flounces, elegantly scaloped at the edges, and headed with a corkscrew trimming of the same; a marked distance between the flounces; these flounces are rather narrow, and are set on in festoons, while the body is made plain, and a narrow triple frill encircles the throat. Hat of pink satin, trimmed with scrolls and ornaments of the same, and a few summer flowers; pink strings floating loose. An amber-colored shawl of Chinese crape is generally worn with this dress. However, the fashion editor goes on to decry the enormous size of hats this season: “…we do not altogether admire their shape, and they are in general too large.”

And of course, as if in answer to that charge, here is an Evening Dress from June’s Ackermann’s with a most minimal headdress. The skirt and sleeves have elegant gold edged appliques, and even the gloves are threaded with gold ribbon to match. Very elegant!

This is Ball Dress is a complete delight! I love the pink of the underskirt shining through the gauzy overskirt, and the magenta ribbon decorations on the lower part of the skirt, looking rather like the lacing on a pair of shoes, is original. Loops of matching ribbon adorn the neck and sleeves; they must have fluttered fetchingly in the midst of dancing…and again, the ribbon lacing at the tops of the gloves is adorable (Ackermann’s, June):

What do you think of 1827’s fashions so far?

Fashion Forecast: 1826, Part 2

What was the well-dressed young woman wearing in the second half of 1826?

For a sunny summer stroll she might wear this sunshine yellow Walking Dress (Ackermann’s Repository, July) with self-fabric appliques down the front of the skirt and a roulade hem. I find her hat interesting—the gray ribbon wrapping the brim makes it look like a birthday present—and her red bracelets and brooch—coral, perhaps?
Skirts are starting to take on a definite bell-shape as can be seen in this Evening Dress from July’s Ackermann's. The tab fringe around hem and neckline will be seen in other dresses this year; the ombre-dyed shawl is something we’ve seen already from earlier this year. And I love her ruffle-edged gloves!
This one’s my favorite from this half of 1826: an Evening Dress with beautifully detailed woven knotwork applique at the hem, an elegant, almost boat-neck neckline, and gauze oversleeves on top of wee puff sleeves. Her headdress is an elegant turban (or is it a Phrygian cap—perhaps a combination?) of pink and white to match her dress, and her gloves have a deep zig-zag hem. Shawl is another one of those ombre-dyed scarves. Very nice! (Ackermann's Repository, August):
Yellow does seem to be a popular color this year; here’s another Evening Dress in that color with gauze oversleeves and overskirt appliqued with ribbon and what looks like flowers and sheaves of grain—appropriate for a harvest-season dress. The grain image is repeated on the bodice. (Ackermann’s Repository, September):
Several costumes from this time are nearly precursors, at least to my eye, of clothes that will be seen in the 1890s. Here’s one of them, a Carriage Dress from September’s Lady’s Magazine: "A petticoat of apricot-colored gros de Naples, with two broad flounces, formed in small scalops, edged with narrow rouleaux. Muslin spencer trimmed at the wrists with Vandyck points of lace, and mancherons [trimming at the shoulder] formed of broad Vandyck lace. Blue sash and bracers, with a rosette in front. A broad colerette pelerine [a short sort of cape, usually just covering the shoulders] of Vandyck lace finishes the spencer at the throat. Leghorn hat, with an ornament en bateau at the crown, of the same material, trimmed with chequered riband, generally yellow and blue; the strings in a loop. Bracelets of gold next the hand. Myrtle-green parasol."
Millinery! It’s rather striking how many different forms hats took, from the leghorn bonnet at bottom trimmed with falling lace (such fun to flirt from behind!), a softer bonnet-shaped cap at right, the assertive tall-brimmed hat at top, and the curious sea-shell shaped cap at left. (October, Ackermann’s Repository):
Dainty is the word for this Evening Dress from November’s Ackermann's. A lace-trimmed and ribbon-festooned gauze overskirt covers a blue underskirt, trimmed at the top of the flounces with what looked like an applique of blue laurel leaves. The sleeves are in three parts—a gauze oversleeve covering a puffed short sleeve and long sleeve as well, and bodice trimmed with broad ribbon at waist and shoulders. Note here as well as in some of the earlier prints the growing complexity of hairstyles, with bands of fabric and ribbon often woven in to puffs of hair:
Here’s a curious Morning Dress that makes me think of Robin Hood: both the skirt and bodice are trimmed with arrowhead-shaped points of fabric and rouleaux at the top of each row of points. The construction of this dress is interesting: it’s made like a jumper, with a white muslin underdress showing at neckline and sleeves. The lace cap is curious as well, decorated with what looks like matching green fabric leaves (Ackermann’s, December):
And one final Evening Dress from December’s Ackermann’s (I seem to have a lot of them for this year) in striking red and white. The skirt is decorated with two rows of geometrically-patterned rouleax and the bodice has vertical detailing that looks almost Art Deco. Sapphire bracelets and necklace and what appears to be a yellow and blue plaid shawl finish the costume:
What do you think of 1826’s fashions?

More of those Nineteen Reasons

Thanks so much for writing in with your comments on what you love about the Nineteenth Century and what you'd like to see us discuss in NineteenTeen--keep them coming! Don't forget that doing so enters you into drawings for a $25 Barnes & Noble gift card or a genuine 19th century fashion print.

So here are a few more reasons why I love the nineteenth century...

7. The Manners. So maybe having to remember to curtsey to your elders and social superiors and always speak and carry yourself gently and quietly in public could feel restrictive to young women. But it also meant that in general, people didn't behave badly in public. Is that a fair trade-off? Would you prefer the more formal manners of the past? I know I would...


8. Horses. Say what you like about hot cars, but honestly, they're soulless things made in factories and one looks pretty much like another in my eyes. Horses on the other hand are individuals with personalities and differences and strengths and weaknesses that add a layer to life that we no longer have, for better or worse. And at least their emissions can be recycled.

9. Hats. I suppose that this could go under "the gorgeous clothes for women" category, but there's more to it than that. Hats are meta-clothes: they have their own language that can reinforce or give lie to the messages given by a dress or coat. A fluffy hat worn with a demure dress can give the message that the wearer has hidden depths, for example. It can flirt by giving a glimpse of partly concealed locks of hair or gracefully accenting the face, or cover up bad hair days. Women lost something when hats went out of fashion.

10. Jane Austen. I made the mistake of trying to read Pride and Prejudice when I was twelve, and didn't get past the first chapter. Even though I was a very advanced reader, I just didn't get it. But when I read it at seventeen, I realized how wonderfully funny it was and read all the other Jane stories as quickly as possible. Don't pick up a Jane Austen novel expecting something big and dramatic and passionate like Wuthering Heights (though Persuasion is a beautifully romantic story). Read it for the quiet, ironical humor and the finely drawn characters and the glimpse into nineteenth century life. If you're not a total history geek, look for a foot-noted edition that explains some of the more obscures references--it will deepen your appreciation of the humor and give you a better picture of 19th century life. Jane was one of the first authors EVER to write about ordinary people and ordinary things and yet make them totally fascinating. That's not only very important for literature as a whole, but also very cool.

What do you think?

The Fashionable Miss Part IV: 1830-1840

Are you ready? We have a lot of fashion ground to cover today!

The clothes of the fashionable miss of the 1830s were influenced heavily by technological advances in dyes and cloth manufacture. As a result, bright colors and printed fabrics were quite popular throughout the decade, as you can see in this cheerful cherry-red dress trimmed with fur from 1830. The exuberance we saw in hats at the end of the 1820s is visible here in hairstyles...but I have to wonder what her hair looked like after an evening of lively dancing.

I see ladies' fashion of this decade also falling into two stages: the horizontal period lasting from 1830 to 1836, and the vertical period which finished off the 1830s and extended into the 1840s. Clothing doesn't get more horizontal than this green dress from 1833! Notice the cape-y, overgrown collar thing she's wearing over her shoulders? That's another distinctive feature of dresses from this period. They went by names like pelerine, canezou, mantelet, and fichu, and hypenated versions signifying their style like pelerine-fichu (what our lady in green is wearing at left). About this time, the amazing hats of the late 1820s gave over in popularity to bonnets, like the one shown here. However, as the decade went on, they too increased in size.

1835 was the height (or width) of horizontal fashion. The costume historian C. Willett Cunningham calls the 1830s a time when women's fashions went from being "exuberantly romantic" to "droopingly sentimental". I don't think you can get more exuberant than this flower-print dress at far right, with ballooning sleeves (sometimes referred to as "imbecile sleeves"!), pelerine covering the shoulders to the elbow plus a lace and cambric collar, and full round skirt. Don't forget that this is before the crinoline of the 1850s and 1860s, so the fullness in her skirt was due in large part to a lot of fabric held up by a lot of fluffy petticoats.

Between that and the enormity of the sleeves, you have to wonder how anyone could move, even to play the piano as these ladies in the print at left seem to want to do.

But in 1836, as you can see from the dress at right, the balloon (sleeve) burst and plummeted out of fashion in the matter of a few short months. In a letter to a friend written in 1837, a young debutante says this: "I hope you who are so fashionable a person have already made all your sleeves quite tight to your arm--but the question is useless for I know you would not think of going out with such an old-fashioned thing as a full sleeve at present..." Instead of being hugely wide, sleeves became snug to the upper arm (though the lower part of the sleeve could be fuller).

The droopy, sloping shoulder look came into fashion, bodices developed even more prominent points in front, and the whole look makes me wonder if the earth's gravitational field didn't sudddenly get stronger. Doesn't this 1839 miss in the picture at left look rather on the limp, languishing side?

I have to confess that after this decade, my interest in nineteenth century clothes drops off rather precipitously (along with my collection of fashion prints) because they stop being quite so much fun. So it may be a while before we continue our clothing series to later decades. However, we promise future posts on "supporting role" aspects of fashion--shoes, millinery, acccesories, and hair.