Here’s
another post in our ongoing series on Regency fabrics.
As I have in previous posts, I’ll be examining actual fabric samples glued into
several earlier editions of Ackermann’s Repository, samples supplied by
the manufacturers and published by Ackermann in order to boost the British
cloth-making industry at a time when exporting British goods to Europe was almost
impossible because of the Napoleonic war. I'll give you a close-up scan of each
sample, the published description if available, and my own observations of the color,
weight, condition, and similarity to present-day materials, to give you as close
a picture as possible of what these fabrics are like.
Today’s
four samples are from the November 1809 issue of Ackermann’s
Repository—a recent acquisition! The overall condition of my copy is very
good: the page has been trimmed a little close on the sides and is rather
darkly toned but not otherwise damaged, and all four fabric samples are present
and in good condition, if a little creased in places.
Here
we go!
No. 1. A fret-work striped muslin,
particularly adapted for gowns, robes, and pelisses. This article is confined
to no absolute order of costume, but is equally adapted to the morning, or half
dress;though perhaps it more immediately belongs to the former; yet we have
seen the simple French frock, buttoned or laced up the back with biassed bosom
and short sleeve, formed of this material; and with ornaments of variegated
gems, it forms, at once, a dress unobtrusively neat and attractive. It is sold
by Messrs. Waithman and Everington, No. 104, Fleet-street, at 4s. 3d. per yard.
My comments: Well, this is
interesting. Examining the fabric (a very fine, sheer muslin, definitely
designed to be made up with a lining) I thought it looked rather odd—the stripes
have these little blobs of thread that are rather untidy and not very
attractive. Then I carefully looked at the backside of the sample, and it
suddenly made more sense: the stripes are much more regular and even (not to
mention attractive.) Could it be that whoever glued in the samples put this one
in backward?
No. 2. The Arabian Jubilee silk; the
most rich and beautiful article which has ever been introduced in the line of
full dress. We may fairly commend the taste and invention of the manufacturer
of this most splendid article, which is at once both unique and elegant.
We need say little to our fair correspondents by way of recommending it to
their notice; its attraction is sufficiently striking to the eye of taste, and
we venture to predict, that it will be a reigning favourite with the superior order
of fashionables during the winter. It is sold by Mr. D. Hodges, No. 12,
Henrietta-street, Covent-garden.
My comments: Ah, merchandising; Mr.
Hodges was clearly trying to take advantage of George III’s Jubilee
celebrations to sell merchandise. It is lovely stuff, though the scan is not doing it full justice—very fluid and
shiny (it is silk, after all) in a warm corn-gold, and would make a beautiful evening dress.
No. 3. An imperial green shawl print, of
the most novel introduction, and which is expected to rank high on the list of
winter fashions, as there are considerable quantities preparing at the different
manufactories. The pattern is strikingly delicate, and the colours agreeably
contrasted; the warm glow of the bright yellow being a seasonable opposition to the
cooler shade of the yet lively green. For the more humble order of home costume, morning
wraps, or high gowns, this animated article is particularly adapted; and, we
doubt not, will be purchased with avidity by females of taste. This print is
also sold by Messrs. Waithman and Everington, No. 104, Fleet-street, at 4s. per
yard.
My comments: This is cheerful stuff! I
like the print atop the twill-weave stripe, though I’m still trying to figure
out if it’s supposed to be a floral or just an insouciant little doodle. There
has been fading—the green on the reverse is much brighter and livelier. The
body of the fabric is light and drape-y, but perfectly opaque.
No.4 is a chintz kerseymere for
gentlemens’ waistcoats, and displays much appropriate taste and liveliness of
invention. There is little need of remark on this article, except to point out
the agreeable contrast which waistcoats of this kerseymere, will form to the
dark shades of winter coats. It is sold by Messrs. Smith and Co. No. 2 Prince’s-street,
Leicester-square, price 16s.
My comments: I’m not entirely sure
where the “chintz” in the description comes in; this fabric is like a thick
twill (hard to see in the image, but it’s definitely a twill) that has been
brushed to a felt-like consistency, not polished and glazed like a twill. It is
definitely suitable for a toasty-warm winter-season waistcoat, being quite sturdy
and impervious to chill winds.
What do you think of this month’s fabrics? I wouldn't mind one in the Jubilee silk, myself...
