Tuesday, November 28, 2017

Accessories, Part 10: More Scarves and Shawls

We’re back for another installment in our fashion series on NineteenTeen focusing not on dresses and gowns (gorgeous as they are) but on the little things that complete a fashionable ensemble—hats, shoes, gloves, purses, parasols, and other accessories.

This week we'll look at more scarves and shawls, following up on the first set of images we saw a few weeks back. In this era of no central heating, the shawl was a ubiquitous—and needed—garment. Ladies made a virtue of necessity by turning it into not only a fashion statement, but also a status indicator via expensive imported shawls from India, of silk and cashmere.

We’ll be seeing examples from 1816 through 1821; I’ll cover later years in the next installment. Look for lots of images rather than commentary, though I’ll try to supply original text if I have it—the point is to be able to examine multiple examples of each item. Images are drawn from my collection of prints from Ackermann’s Repository. Happy accessorizing!

Carriage Dress, March 1816, Ackermann’s Repository
Looks like an Indian import shawl, maybe?

Morning Dress, April 1816, Ackermann’s Repository

Evening Dress, May 1816, Ackermann’s Repository
Another fine lace shawl

Evening Dress, June 1816, Ackermann’s Repository
Original text reads, “A rich white lace scarf is thrown carelessly over the left shoulder, and partially shades one side of the neck.” The “casual” look seems to have been in. 

Opera Dress, July 1816, Ackermann’s Repository
Original text reads, “A blush-coloured French silk scarf is thrown carelessly over the shoulders.”

Ball Dress, October 1816, Ackermann’s Repository
I would guess this one is “carelessly draped” as well. Another import shawl?

Carriage Dress, February 1817, Ackermann’s Repository
Juggling both a shawl and a large muff here...

Evening Dress, February 1817, Ackermann’s Repository

Opera Dress, March 1817, Ackermann’s Repository
This looks more like a carriage rug than a shawl, doesn’t it?

Evening Dress, January 1818, Ackermann’s Repository
A plate from a period of court mourning for Princess Charlotte of Wales. The white or grey embroidery on the edge is striking.

Evening Dress, April 1818, Ackermann’s Repository
A tartan shawl? Hmm...

Evening Dress, October 1818, Ackermann’s Repository
Interestingly, a shawl isn’t even mentioned in the dress description in the original text.

Walking Dress, October 1818, Ackermann’s Repository
Original description reads, “A lemon-coloured shawl, very richly embroidered, is thrown loosely over the shoulders.

Walking Dress, November 1818, Ackermann’s Repository
Note the kerchief around the neck as well as the shawl. Original text reads, “...a silk handkerchief is tied carelessly round the throat, and a rich scarf thrown over the shoulders.”

Half Mourning Evening Dress, January 1819, Ackermann’s Repository
Queen Charlotte had died late the previous year, hence the half-mourning by this date. The black scarf shows handsomely against the white dress.

Walking Dress, February 1819, Ackermann’s Repository
Again, no description of the shawl depicted in this print is given, which seems odd.

Walking & Morning Dress, September 1819, Ackermann’s Repository
This shawl appears to be trimmed with broad scalloped lace.

Walking Dress, June 1820, Ackermann’s Repository
Again, the shawl is not described in the text. Had the lovely Indian shawls now become so commonplace as not to merit a description?

Evening Dress, June 1820, Ackermann's Repository

Cottage Dress, September 1820, Ackermann’s Repository
Note the kerchief tied loosely around the neck, matching the dress in color.

Walking Dress, October 1820, Ackermann’s Repository

Evening Dress, February 1821, Ackermann’s Repository

Walking Dress, July 1821, Ackermann’s Repository

Evening Dress, August 1821, Ackermann’s Repository

Evening Dress, September 1821, Ackermann’s Repository
Another plaid shawl!

Evening Dress, November 1821, Ackermann’s Repository

To be continued...

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