Regency Fabrics, Part 21

Here’s another post in our ongoing series on Regency fabrics.

As I have in previous posts, I’ll be examining actual fabric samples glued into several earlier editions of Ackermann’s Repository, samples supplied by the manufacturers and published by Ackermann in order to boost the British cloth-making industry at a time when exporting British goods to Europe was almost impossible because of the Napoleonic war. I'll give you a close-up scan of each sample, the published description if available, and my own observations of the color, weight, condition, and similarity to present-day materials, to give you as close a picture as possible of what these fabrics are like.

Today’s four samples are from the October 1811 issue of Ackermann’s Repository. The overall condition of my copy is very good, at least as far as the paper goes; while the physical integrity of the fabrics is good, the two lower ones seem to be a bit faded or have offset from the facing page.

Here we go!

No. 1. A lilac and white Moscow checked sarsnet, for dinner or evening dresses: trimmings of Chinese fringe, thread-lace, or white beads, are appropriate for dresses of this light article, with jewellery ornaments to correspond. They are (like most of the evening robes) made with demi-trains, and many ladies adopt the short full sleeve. It is furnished by D. and P. Cooper, Pall-Mall.

My comments: Very pretty! Today we might call this a window-pane plaid, and it is lovely stuff, a lightweight silk plain weave with the twill stripes in off-white running through it and a soft sheen overall. It's fairly opaque, but would benefit from a lining in both bodice and skirt.

No. 2. A purple striped Iris net, calculated for the above order of costume. This article is usually worn over a white sarsnet or satin slip, and trimmed with white lace, or silk fringe. It is sold by Mr. George, No. 19, Holywell-street, Strand.

My comments: Funny how tastes change; I would not have pegged this fabric as appropriate for dresses intended for formal occasions. It's a net-type fabric so the thread count is lower (and yes, it would absolutely have to be worn over a slip) but the weave is even and the fabric itself fairly stiff and sturdy.

No. 3. A jonquil shawl-pattern cambric, belonging to the domestic or intermediate order of dress. Robes of this article are usually made plain, sitting close to the form, in wraps, or high gowns, with long sleeves, rather large, and trimmed around the throat and at the wrists with lace. It is sold by Mr. Smith, Tavistock-street, Covent-Garden.

My comments: What a cheerful fabric! Though the yellow is fading it's plain to see how bright this originally was. The fabric itself is of a nice weight and would drape nicely, with twilled diagonal stripes woven in.

No. 4 is also an article for morning or domestic decoration, and is called the palm-leaf imperial-striped cambric. It is formed in plain robes as above; and furnished also by Mr. Smith, Tavistock-street, Covent-Garden.

My comments: A twill weave, with the pink stripes woven in and the leaves printed over. A bit lighter weight than No. 3, but certainly appropriate for a cheerful morning dress to wear at home while answering letters or planning the social domination of London. ☺

Any thoughts on this month’s fabrics?