Here’s
another post in our ongoing series on Regency fabrics.
As I have in previous posts, I’ll be examining actual fabric samples glued into
several earlier editions of Ackermann’s Repository, samples supplied by
the manufacturers and published by Ackermann in order to boost the British
cloth-making industry at a time when exporting British goods to Europe was almost
impossible because of the Napoleonic war. I'll give you a close-up scan of each
sample, the published description if available, and my own observations of the
color, weight, condition, and similarity to present-day materials, to give you
as close a picture as possible of what these fabrics are like.
Today’s
four samples are from the July 1813 issue of Ackermann’s Repository. The overall condition of my copy is excellent; the page
itself is free of foxing and is only slightly toned, though it is a bit ragged
on the right-hand margin. The samples themselves are in excellent condition,
with only a little fraying on the edges of two of them.
Here
we go!
No. 1 A primrose floret sarsnet. There
is great beauty and lightness in this fabric, and the colour is chaste. It is
necessary in adopting a dress, that the wearer should chuse the colour with
some attention to her complexion. It not unfrequently happens, that a dress may
be admired for its becoming appearance, from the accidental circumstance of
some fitness in the arrangement of colours between the complexion of the wearer
and the hue of the dress. Those who are desirous of ascertaining what colours
would best suit a Brunetta or a Phillis, would do well to have two handsome figures
drawn on a small scale, with faces, necks, and arms painted to each; the shape
for dress might be cut out, and the various patterns of silks, muslins, &c.
might easily be inserted, to fill up the space, which would afford the means of
ascertaining what colours would be most becoming.—If some eminent portrait-painter
would write his sentiments upon this subject, he would serve the cause of
female fashion. Surely dress, or fashion, might be governed by scientific
principles as well as any other matter of taste. This sarsnet is sold by George
and Bradley, Golden Key, Holywell-street, Strand.
My comments: Hmm. The actual discussion of the “article” itself
gets rather lost in the essay on scientific fashion! Which is a pity, because
this is a truly beautiful fabric in a pale buff color, woven in diagonally
ribbed stripes that create a dark-light effect. Add the sheen of silk, with
just enough body to drape elegantly, and you’ve got one of the loveliest
samples I’ve run across. I do wonder if it has faded, as the originally description
calls it “primrose”, usually a light yellow, but that’s hard to discern.
No. 2. Peruvian spotted net. Very different in colour from the
preceding article, yet in one respect similar, namely, that the paleness of the
ground only approximates to the beauty of the blue with which it is spotted. It
rarely happens, that a dress of one unbroken colour, let it be ever so
brilliant, adorns the wearer, be she dark or fair, or her figure ever so graceful:
so large a mass of colour overpowers the countenance and complexion, and
produces no high opinion of the taste of the wearer. Sold as above.
My comments: Hmm. Maybe these
samples aren’t in as good shape as I’d thought, if the dots on this loosely
woven silk netting were actually once blue; either that, or the copy was
written for a different fabric than was actually sent. As it’s a net, it was definitely
meant to be worn over an underdress; it’s a silk as well, with just enough body
to have draped well.
No. 3. Fancy wove muslin. This is a
lightsome fabric, that will suit every complexion, and is fitted for the sunnier
season. The ornaments best suited to this and the preceding patterns, must be
regulated by the taste of the wearers, as less control pervades these matters
than heretofore. Indeed, the little expletives of female attire are usually
best conceived, and better arranged by the spontaneous hand of the wearer, than
by the precise rules established at any particular toilette. Sold by T. and J.
Smith, Tavistock-street, Covent-Garden.
My comments: I’ll agree that this sample is “lightsome”—a charming
word for a charming fabric, which makes me think of little girls’ Easter
dresses. The muslin is woven of fine, even cotton thread with the pink design
woven in, not printed. This picture isn't doing it justice, alas; a very dainty fabric, likely worn over a slip.
No. 4. Russia Paper. This paper
is a close imitation of Russia, now so much used in book-binding, pocket-books,
purses, and all ladies’ ornamental work. It may be had a shade lighter or
darker, at option. It is particularly neat for binding or covering any
port-folio, for the toilette or desk, any may be adapted to the many uses for
which Morocco paper is calculated. It is not so apt to soil or damage as many
of the lighter fancy papers. It may be seen made up and adapted to various
purposes, at R. Ackermann’s Repository of Arts, 101, Strand; where ladies will
find the newest articles in the fancy paper line. Size of Russia paper, half
sheet wove drawing medium, 12s. per dozen.
My comments: We’ve seen paper samples presented here before, but
I have to wonder if this one is here because a fourth fabric sample didn’t
arrive by the print date. I’m trying to think of a type of paper used today
that might be analogous, but not having much luck: this paper is crisp, even
after 200+ years…but it’s maybe as heavy as a kraft envelope. All of the color
is printed—the back is white—and the printed surface is glazed like a chintz.
What
do you think of this month’s fabrics (and paper)?