Fashion Forecast: 1833, Part 2

What was the well-dressed young woman wearing in the second half of 1833?

July’s Evening Dresses come in both plain and fancy, as can be seen in this print from the Court Magazine. On the left, the bodice and skirt appear to be of a figured muslin, with pleats across the breast; the sleeves are decorated with full frills of lace both above and below...and the feathers in the hat are decidedly Dr. Seussical. The gold dress at left sensibly keeps things plain and lets the black lace frill, pointed at the waist, do the talking. Note that the gloves have a frill of black lace as well! Both dresses are quite low cut off the shoulder, as was the general fashion this year in evening wear:

 For an evening out in August, here are an Opera Dress and an Evening Dress from the Court Magazine, both on the same general line but with slightly differing sleeves, the Opera Dress having a self-fabric upper sleeve and the Evening Dress a double sleeve of lace flounces. The black lace scarf-wrapper is quite striking:

More wonderful backgrounds...and two wonderful Evening Dressses in September’s Court Magazine. I wish I had the original text as I would love to see the description of the print fabric on the left. The sleeve variations on both dresses are of especial interest: note the long gauze sleeves caught closed with buttons on the dress at left, and the graceful fall of lace on the sleeves at right:

October’s Court Magazine features, interestingly, a pair of Sea Side Dresses—who knew that this was a popular month for beach-going? Both appear to be of muslin with the additions of a lace trimmed mantlet at left, and an overdress with a double pelerine bodice:

Also from October’s Court Magazine is this Public Promenade Dress (I do wonder what the difference is—if any—between a Walking Dress and a Promenade Dress!) Note the lace collar plus fichu, the gigot sleeves tight to the forearm, the spectacular parasol, and a reticule fastened to the belt by a small clip:

More Evening Dresses, one of them a “Costume Antique” though the style of the two appears to be identical...perhaps it’s in the details. The sleeves are unusual, hearkening almost to a Renaissance style with a white undergarment puffing through bands of heavier fabric (November, Court Magazine):

This plate from December’s Court Magazine features a Morning Dress and Carriage Dress; the Morning Dress with few fusses and furbelows, as befits a dress you hang out in at home and work on your watercolor painting in. The Carriage Dress features more detail, being made in the pelisse-robe style ornamented with large bows down the front, cuffed gigot sleeves, and a fur boa:

This Evening Dress also from December’s Court Magazine is just so pretty! The skirt is ornamented with a lace inset; small lace frills feature at the waist and around the capelet collar; the sleeves are plain but very full. The gloves appear to be of net, and her hair, with the jeweled headband across the forehead, looks almost flapperish!

What do you think of 1833’s fashion?

Belle: The Rest of the Story

You are very quiet, my dears, but I thought you would want to know a least a part of the rest of the story of Dido Elizabeth Belle, the heroine of the movie Belle, which our own Cara King presented to us this week. My thanks to those who commented.  Please feel free to continue doing so. 

As Cara and QNPoohBear pointed out, the movie was a fictionalized version of Dido’s life.  In reality, she was no dewy-eyed youth when she married; she was more than 30, and she did not marry John Davinier until Lord Mansfield had died. They had three sons, twins two years after they’d married and another son later.  Sadly, she did not live to see her 44th birthday. John later remarried and had two more children with his second wife. 

Her cousin Elizabeth ended up marrying George Finch-Hatton when she was 25 and he was 38.  George was the nephew to Lady Elizabeth, “Mama” in the movie, so we can imagine she must have made the introductions.  George was the oldest son of respectable family, but his father was the fifth son of the 7th Earl of Winchilsea, so ascending to a title was highly likely.  Elizabeth’s George did, however, have not one but two estates, and he was elected to Parliament and served for 12 years, so conceivably Elizabeth and he did rather well. It didn’t hurt that Lord Mansfield left her 10,000 pounds on his death.  

They had a number of children (some sources say three, others five).  Interestingly enough, their oldest son, another George Finch-Hatton, beat all the odds and became the 10th Earl of Winchilsea when his father and all four of his uncles preceded him to the grave. That’s him in the portrait (and it struck me he looked a bit like an older, portlier Tom Felton). Unfortunately, Elizabeth also preceded him in death, so she did not have the opportunity to enjoy her son’s elevation in status.

Want more details about what happened after the movie ended?  See this fabulous post from English Heritage.

Young Bluestockings Attend the Cinema: BELLE

Here at NineteenTeen, we occasionally gather for a virtual tea-party, and discuss a historical film.  Please join us today as we discuss the gorgeous drama "Belle"!

Filmed in several of England's stately homes as well as Pinewood Studios, "Belle" has a true story as its kernel.  Dido Elizabeth Belle, the mixed-race daughter of a captain in the British Royal Navy, is orphaned, and then sent to be raised by her grandparents.   An ordinary-enough story, except that her grandparents are aristocrats -- and they live in an England which still had the slavery in its overseas colonies, and made great profits off the slave trade.

"Belle" starts with the few facts known about the real Dido Belle, and then creates a fascinating story of what her experiences growing up in England might have been.

 

The cast is full of well-known names.  Here are a few, to help your memory during the discussion!

Belle:  Gugu Mbatha-Raw

Lord Mansfield:  Tom Wilkinson

Lady Mansfield:  Emily Watson

Lady Ashford:  Miranda Richardson

James Ashford:  Tom Felton  (beware Slytherin!)

John Davinier (the love interest):  Sam Reid

Elizabeth Murray (the cousin):  Sarah Gadon

 

This film deals with issues of race, of class, of women's freedom and power, of justice, family, and love.  And of course it has those costumes!  And those gorgeous gardens and country houses.  Pretty much everything a person could want in a movie, if you ask me!

   

But we're not asking me, we're asking you!  Have you seen Belle?  What did you think?  What did you like, not like, want more of?  Did you like the way it handled serious issues?  And which hat would you like to wear?

Nineteenth Century Today: The Dreams of Port Townsend

One of the things I love about my new home is all the history surrounding it.  Anglo-history was a little scarce where I came from, with most of the structures dating to no earlier than WWII.  That’s why it was such a treat recently to visit Port Townsend.

Located at the northwest corner of Puget Sound, Port Townsend was original named in 1792 by Captain George Vancouver for his friend the Marquis of Townshend.  Its sheltered, deep harbor welcomed the sailing ships of the day and inspired the first settlers in 1851 to dream of its being the largest harbor on the West Coast.  In fact, the early settlers called it the City of Dreams for the prosperity they hoped would follow.

The town saw rapid growth throughout the 1800s in anticipation of being the terminus for the Northern Pacific Railroad.  Dozens of homes were built along the hillside overlooking Puget Sound, along with many civic buildings.  Fort Worden was built along one end to protect the entrance of Puget Sound from hostile forces. 

But Port Townsend’s dreams were dashed when Tacoma, more than 80 miles and on the other side of the Sound, was chosen as the end of the rail line. People began leaving down in droves.  Only the opening of a paper mill kept Port Townsend alive.  Now, the town thrives on boat building and a growing tourist trade.

My cousin once removed (known as Aunt Mary to my brother and me) lives in the area and took us on what she called her nickel tour.  Everywhere I looked were fine examples of Victorian architecture.  Like this.

And this.

And this, the district courthouse.

And it doesn’t hurt that the deer come right down into the city and roam, even in broad daylight!

It wasn’t hard for the City of Dreams to set me dreaming about owning one of these homes.  In fact, I picked the perfect house for me.  This beauty stands on a bluff alongside Puget Sound, with a commanding view of Port Townsend Bay and Marrowstone Island.  Can’t you just see me sitting in my office, gazing out at the blue, blue waters, the passing ships?

Hm.  Maybe I ought to stay in my little cottage.  At least then my dreams are more likely to get down on paper as books!

What about you?  Any of these houses set you to dreaming?

Accessories, Part 2: More Reticules

Are you writing a Regency-set story or a reenactor thinking about whipping up the perfect costume for an 1815-set ball? Following up on the first post in our new series on women’s fashion accessories in the Regency era, here are more reticules for your viewing pleasure.

Once again, all images are from my Ackermann’s Repository collection, with a few contributions from the Lady’s Magazine, noted below. Lots more cute little drawstring closure-type bags, but some surprisingly modern looking ones as well. Happy accessorizing!

Walking Dress, March 1815:

Carriage Dress, December 1816:

Carriage Dress, January 1818 (from a mourning dress, incidentally--the full image is here:

Walking Dress, November 1819:

Walking Dress November 1820:

Evening Dress, February 1821:

Walking Dress, December 1821:

Walking Dress, March 1822:

Promenade Dress, January 1824--I love the shell shape!:

Evening Dress, March 1824 (Lady’s Magazine):

Promenade Dress, July 1824:

Morning Dress, May 1826:

Carriage Costume, September 1826--though I think this is more a change purse than a reticule, don't you think?

Walking Dress, December 1827 (Lady’s Magazine):

Dinner Dress, March 1828:

Carriage Costume, April 1828:

Asa Mercer and Mea Culpa

No, those aren't the names of Hollywood’s latest It couple.  As I've written  before, Asa Mercer was the first president of the University of Washington, then the Washington Territorial University.  He figured large in the first book of my Frontier Bachelor series, The Bride Ship, as the real-life “Emigration Agent” who persuaded dozens of women to travel from the East Coast to civilize pioneer Seattle.  I tried to depict Mr. Mercer as a shrewd fellow who was focused on a goal:  bringing brides for bachelors.  I read any number of biographies on him.  And they all confirmed his claim to be the first president of the Territorial University. 

What they didn't mention was when he stopped being president.

Perhaps it was the dizzying delight of finally getting to write about the Mercer Belles, a dream I've had since I was a girl. Perhaps it was the many things I wanted to research in these, my first books set outside early nineteenth century England.  Either way, it never dawned on me that Mr. Mercer might have moved on in his profession before he made his fateful second voyage around which my stories are set.

This week, while trying to determine the school year at the Territorial University for a plot point in the fourth book, I delved more deeply into University of Washington history. It seems Mr. Mercer was only president from 1861 to 1863.  In 1866, when the first four stories are set, William Edward Barnard was president of the university for the first part of the year and George Fred Whitworth (who founded Whitworth College in Spokane, Washington) was president the second half of the year.

Oh, but I hate to get things wrong!  The mistake, unfortunately, affects three books. Mr. Mercer’s role as current president is mentioned not only in The Bride Ship, but in this month’s Would-Be Wilderness Wife and August’s Frontier Engagement.  My deepest apologies, dear readers.

And I must apologize to another.  You see, I am a graduate of the University of Washington.  Mea culpa, alma mater, mea culpa.

Fashion Forecast: 1833, Part 1

What was the well-dressed young woman wearing in the first half of 1833? I'm dividing this year in half just because I have a lovely selection of prints to share, and don't want to leave anything out!

In January, she might be wearing a Morning Dress or Walking Dress as shown in The Court Magazine. I have the original text for these: "Morning Dress—Dress of chaly [challis], printed à colonnes, high body, with crossed plaits, plain back, laced; large full sleeves, tight to the elbow. Apron of black gros de Naples, embroidered with a wreath of sweet peas; epaulettes on the shoulders embroidered also; cap of Brussels lace, trimmed with maïs gauze riband. Walking Dress—Dress of blue saphire satin, plain body; tippet of black velvet à godets, and long ends; blonde ruff, with a bow of maïs gauze riband; capote of maïs terry velvet, lined with black velvet, and plait of velver to mix in the curls; trimmed with a maïs and black cerbère feather and maïs gauze riband." "Maïs" here indicates a pale yellow, like maize or corn.

Also in January’s Court Magazine, this elegant Evening Dress. The text reads, "Dress of white Cachemire [cashmere] à colonnes, alternately high corsage drapé, with borders to corespond with the pattern of the dress; short sleeves of white gros de Naples under long crapelisse sleeves; hat of grenat velvet, trimmed with torsades of velvet and a green bird of Paradise."

This print from Court Magazine’s February edition does something that Ackermann’s prints didn’t: show a front and back view, but slightly varied (a different fabric, perhaps.) This is a charming Dinner or Evening Dress, with an elegant turban headdress:

March’s Court Magazine has two wonderful Ball Dresses, one of them for a costume ball as it called "Catherine Seton", after one of Mary Queen of Scots ladies-in-waiting. Text reads: Catherine Seton--Dress of white satin, trimmed with blue velvet and pearls. Tunique of the same, and cordelière in pearls. Cherusse of blond; head dress of pearls, and a veil. Ball Dress—Dress of cerise gauze “à damier,” trimmed with gauze ribands and flowers. Plain body with bouffantes short sleeves “à côtes,” with sabots. Wreath of small flowers same as the dress."

One thing I especially enjoy about these prints from Court Magazine are the attention lavished on backgrounds as well as on the dresses themselves, making them even more eye-candyish. April's Court Dress definitely qualifies as eye-candy, by the way--the description reads: "White satin dress embroidered à tablier, in gold lama [lamè]; train and body à l’antique, in violet velvet embroidered in gold; sleeves à pointes, in velvet fastened with brilliants, blonde mantilla and sabots. Plume of ostrich feathers, and blond lappets."

Also in April's edition is a Carriage Dress—again, we have a front and back view, with slight variations: "Pelisse of green rayé watered silk, trimmed in front, cape of the same with epaulets; frill in plain blond net. Bonnet of mauve satin with one white ostrich feather."

Another Court Dress features in May's Court Magazine, this time in cherry-pink and white, with a bow-decorated train and sleeves, an emerald parure, and the requisite ostrich feathers and lappets:

And lastly, for June, a restrained yet still wildly romantic Evening Dress, all of the same fabric but with a scalloped overskirt, gathered bouffant sleeves, and a few outrageously large bows to finish things off. And again, the background art is as pretty as the dress:

What do you think of 1833's fashions?

Hearing from a Hero: Drew Wallin from Would-Be Wilderness Wife

Maybe it’s just me, but there’s something about a broad-shouldered man, ready to take on the world and protect those he loves.  That’s Drew Wallin from my March release, Would-Be Wilderness Wife.  Drew has a lot on his hands, logging the massive trees around Seattle, managing his family’s wilderness farm, and improving his own claim along the shores of Lake Union.  But Drew’s driving goal is to see all of his younger brothers and sisters safely grown. He’s definitely the strong, silent type, and it takes a lot to get a rise out of him.  That’s why I enlisted his second brother, the dapper, witty James Wallin, to interview him for us.

James Wallin:  Well, you’ve finally done it this time, brother.  Gone and kidnapped yourself a bride.

Drew Wallin:  I didn’t kidnap her.  I went to Seattle trying to find medical help for Ma, and Doc Maynard couldn’t leave town. I didn’t plan on taking his nurse.  I knew what the rest of you would think.

James:  Of course!  We took one look at Catherine’s pretty face and heard wedding bells.  Better you than the rest of us.  I just bless Levi for having the brains to grab her when you wouldn’t.

Drew:  I wouldn’t call that brains.  More like stupidity.  Just be glad Catherine agreed to stay until Ma was well.

James:  Oh, I am. Even if she is the bossy sort.

Drew:  You call it bossy, I call it organization.  She herded us all into line.  We needed it.

James:  Speak for yourself. 

Drew, groaning:  Not again.

James:  Ha!  Just like when Simon tricked you into reading that poem with Catherine in front of us all.  You were playing John Alden, and she was playing Priscilla Mullins, and she asked you to speak for yourself in courting her.

Drew, smile playing about his mouth:  She turned so red when she’d realized what she’d said. 

James: And you wore that loopy grin for hours.  Scared the daylights out of the oxen.  What I don’t understand is why you don’t take her up on the offer.  She’s smart, organized, and pretty.  What more do you want, man?

Drew, smile fading:  I have enough to do trying to raise you all to take on a wife, particularly one who doesn’t know her way around the wilderness.

James:  In case you hadn’t noticed, Simon, John, and I are grown.  We don’t exactly need your tender care.

Drew:  And Levi?  Beth?  Should I just run off and leave them to fend for themselves?

James:  You won’t be far.  I can spit and hit your cabin from the main house.  You know what I think?  (Lowers his voice)  I think you’re scared.

Drew:  Terrified.  So, leave be, brother.  Besides, I don’t need to marry to carry on Pa’s name.  There are four more of you to do that.

James, raising his hands:  Don’t look at me!  I don’t intend to marry, ever.  Life’s too short to spend it worrying about the people you love.

Hm, sounds like both Wallin men need to find the right bride to help them see the beauty of love.  What do you think?

Warming Up the Wilderness

Would-Be Wilderness Wife, the second in my Frontier Bachelors series set around pioneer Seattle, was just released, and I couldn't be happier with the reception.

RT Book Reviews gave it 4.5 stars and a Top Pick for March. “Plenty of drama and a mystery that will keep readers turning pages.”

But I was truly humbled by the 5 star reviews from the delightful Britt Reads Fiction and the amazing Huntress Reviews.  Said the latter:  "The character of Catherine is a strong one. No simpering miss here! She is intelligent, brave, and knows what she wants. She is also wise enough to know when to bow to another's expertise; such as when a large cougar appears and she does not know how to shoot. Drew's character is a perfect match for Catherine. Family is very important to him. This gentleman is brave, skilled, and has much honor. I cannot express how great this story is, nor can I recommend it highly enough. Absolutely wonderful!"  

I hope you’ll agree.  Here’s a little taste:

He carried himself as proudly as a knight from the tales of King Arthur her father had read to her as a child. His rough-cut light brown hair brushed the top of the door jamb, his shoulders in the wrinkled blue cotton shirt reached either side. He took a step into the room, and she was certain she felt the floor tremble.

Finding her voice, she raised her chin. “I can help you.”

He walked down the narrow room toward her, the thud of his worn leather boots like the sound of a hammer on the planks of the floor. The blue apothecary bottles lined up on the shelves behind the counter chimed against one another as he passed. He was like a warrior approaching his leader, a soldier his commanding officer. Mrs. Witherspoon, waiting on a chair for the doctor to reset her shoulder, clutched her arm close, wide eyed. Others stared at him or quickly looked away.

He stopped beside Catherine and lay his fingers on the curved back of the chair where the elderly Mr. Jenkins snoozed while he waited for his monthly dose of medicine. Scars crossed the skin of the massive hand, white against the bronze.

Up close, Catherine could see that his face was more heart-shaped than oval, his unkempt hair drawing down in a peak over his forehead. His liberally lashed eyes were a mixture of clear green and blue, like the waves that lapped the Puget Sound shores. The gold of his skin said he worked outdoors; the wear on this clothes said he made little income from it.

He was easily the most healthy male she’d ever seen, so why did he need medical assistance?

“Are you a doctor?” he asked. Everything from the way he cocked his head to the slow cadence of the question spoke of his doubt.

Her spine stiffened, lifting her blue skirts off the floor and bringing her head level with his breastbone. She was used to the surprise, the doubts about her vocation here in Seattle. Even where she’d been raised, a few had questioned that the prominent physician George Stanway had trained his daughter to be a nurse. More had wondered why their beloved doctor and his promising son had felt it necessary to get themselves killed serving in the Union Army. At times, Catherine wondered the same thing.

“I’m a nurse,” she told their visitor, keeping her voice calm, professional. “I was trained by my father, a practicing physician, and served for a year at the New England Hospital for Women and Children. I came West with the Mercer expedition. Doctor Maynard was sufficiently pleased with my credentials to hire me to assist him and his wife.”

“So you’re a Mercer belle.” He straightened, towering over her. “I didn't come looking for a bride. I need a doctor.”

A Mercer belle. That, she knew from the newspapers back East, was synonymous with husband hunter. Obviously her credentials as a medical practitioner meant nothing to him.

Well, he might not have come to the hospital seeking a bride, but she hadn't come to Seattle after a husband either. She’d already refused three offers of marriage since arriving two weeks ago. Her friend, Madeleine O’Rourke, had turned away six. Even her friend Allegra had had to argue with two would-be suitors before she’d wed her childhood sweetheart, Clay Howard, a successful local businessman, only two days after landing.

None of them had left the East Coast expecting such attentions. When Seattle’s self-proclaimed emigration agent, Asa Mercer, had recruited her and nearly seventy other women to settle in Washington Territory, he’d talked of the jobs that needed filling, the culture they could bring to the fledgling community. Already some of her traveling companions were teaching schools in far-flung settlements. Others had taken jobs they had never dreamed of back home, including tending a lighthouse. They were innovative and industrious, just as Catherine had hoped she’d be when she’d journeyed west.

“I’m not interested in marriage either, sir,” she told him. “And I assure you, I am perfectly suited to deal with medical emergencies. Now, what’s the trouble?”

~~~

Would-Be Wilderness Wife is available from fine retailers such as

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