Tuesday, March 3, 2020

Regency Fabrics, Part 28

Here’s another post in our ongoing series on Regency fabrics.

As I have in previous posts, I’ll be examining actual fabric samples glued into several earlier editions of Ackermann’s Repository, samples supplied by the manufacturers and published by Ackermann in order to boost the British cloth-making industry at a time when exporting British goods to Europe was almost impossible because of the Napoleonic war. I'll give you a close-up scan of each sample, the published description if available, and my own observations of the color, weight, condition, and similarity to present-day materials, to give you as close a picture as possible of what these fabrics are like.

Today’s three samples are from the September 1811 issue of Ackermann’s Repository. The overall condition of my copy is excellent; the page itself is free of foxing and is only slightly toned. One of the samples shows some foxing, but overall they’re in very good condition.

Here we go!

No. 1 and 2. A striped Persian dove-coloured chintz for window-curtains and bed furniture. The colour of this article is so chaste, and at the same time so perfectly neutral, that fringed trimming of any hue will suit it; a rich gold yellow, however, is particularly adapted to shew it to the greatest advantage. This pattern is supplied by Mr. Allen, 61, Pall-Mall, whose taste as a designer and printer of furniture is so conspicuously displayed in the elegance of all his productions, as to have procured him the most flattering patronage of His Royal Highness the Prince Regent.

My comments: Hmm. I’d always thought “dove-coloured” to be a grayish color, but this sample is decidedly brown; either it has changed over the years, or the definition has. It’s a nicely evenly-woven, not-too-heavily glazed chintz, which would drape well but would likely need lining to give it sufficient body for curtains.

No. 2. is a celestial blue waved gauze for evening dress. This article, equally novel and graceful, should be worn over white satin or sarsnet, and may be had of Messrs. Cooper and Co. silk-mercers, 28, Pall-Mall.

My comments:  Oops—some mis-numbering here. This is an airy net-like fabric, beautifully silky, with a pattern of zig-zags to give it visual interest. The pale sky blue would be lovely over white satin as suggested in the text.

No. 3. A sprigged chintz, designed for morning dresses. It combines a high degree of elegance with a pleasing simplicity; and is sold by Cooper and Co. 113, New-Bond-street.

My comments: Ah, another morning dress print fabric, perhaps for a Morning Dress like this one at left from Ackermann in February 1810. This chintz is woven of very fine thread which makes it sturdy yet supple, and the printing is neatly and accurately done.

What do you think of this month’s fabrics?


Daisy said...

I don't particularly care for the print of the third or the color of the first, But I would definitely wear the second. Maybe even over white.

Marissa Doyle said...

Well, you'd need to wear it over SOMETHING, or you'd be giving everyone at the ball quite a show. ;)