Here’s another post in our
ongoing series on Regency fabrics.
As I have in previous posts, I’ll be examining actual fabric samples glued into
several earlier editions of
Ackermann’s Repository, samples supplied by
the manufacturers and published by Ackermann in order to boost the British
cloth-making industry at a time when exporting British goods to Europe was
almost impossible because of the Napoleonic war. I'll give you a close-up scan
of each sample, the published description if available, and my own observations
of the color, weight, condition, and similarity to present-day materials, to
give you as close a picture as possible of what these fabrics are like.
Today’s three samples are from
the October 1810 issue of Ackermann’s Repository. The overall condition of my
copy is moderate; while the physical integrity of the fabric samples is good,
there’s a lot of spotting on the top sample that obscures the pattern somewhat—mildew,
perhaps? The other two samples are in good condition.
No. 1 and 2. A most lively and appropriate furniture print, from Mr.
Allen’s 61, Pall-Mall, adapted principally for drawing room curtains and sofas.
Boudoir draperies have a most pleasing effect when composed of this article.
The most happily contrasted linings are, shades of green, blue, and purple,
with variegated fringes to correspond.
My comments: I will confess that my first impression of this
pattern was a memory of the little circular gummed reinforcement labels for three-hole
punched paper (remember those?) The fabric itself is very finely and evenly woven, with a smooth
glazed chintz finish and sufficient weight to mean this fabric definitely
draped well. But, um, paired with green, blue, or purple lining? Not in
my
boudoir, thank you very much!
No. 3. This is an article very superior of its order, forming a neat
and delicate intermediate kind of robe, and procured at the most modest expence
[sic], being offered from 8s. to 14s. the
dress, at Millard’s, in the city. The proprietor of this fashionable resort,
which we have had occasion to notice in the foregoing numbers of our Repository, has, we are informed from the best
authority, succeeded in forming connections with the great commercial cities in
Russia, India, China, South America, Germany, France, Spain, Scotland, and
Ireland; and thus rendered the establishment a grand depôt of every article which in elegance or
utility can render a mansion comfortable or attractive, as far as relates to
the requisite and ornamental furniture for drawing-rooms, eating and sleeping-rooms, nursery, &c. Ladies’
dresses of every degree, and of a superior description, as well as those for
general use, are exhibited in abundance; and selections for forming new
establishments made be readily made, and executed without delay. Here the
nobility and gentry, the merchant, the country trader, and the public, are
regularly supplied; and we cannot withhold the just portion of merit which
belongs to the proprietor, whose persevering industry, ingenuity, and taste,
have completed a depot on so vast and
useful a scale. The assemblage of valuable India shawls, and of those
manufactured in this country, are, we understand, immense in this
establishment.
My comments: Well, it might have been nice to know a little more
about the fabric and a little less about the industrious and ingenious (and unnamed!)
proprietor in whose establishment this superior article could be purchased! It’s
a very fine (and sheer—would definitely require a lining) muslin striped with a
thin double line, of red and and white, twilled. Very dainty for a morning dress, I’m
sure. Oh—did you notice the reference to the fact that the proprietor appeared
to be trading with France? I would have thought that the little matter of being
at war with that country might have interfered with trade, but evidently not!
No. 4 is a neat and appropriate article for gentlemen’s waistcoats, and
is styled silk toilonet. It is ¾ yard wide, and sold by Messrs. Smith and Ash,
fancy waistcoat warehouse, Prince’s-street, Soho, facing Coventry-street. The
taste, utility, and reasonableness of this article, are too obvious to need
further comment.
My comments: Hmm. I can’t help suspecting that further comment wasn’t
forthcoming because the actual samples hadn’t been delivered to Ackermann’s offices
before print time, but maybe I’m being cynical. It’s a curious fabric, without
any modern counterpart that I can think of: heavier in weight, rather stiff,
and in texture somewhere between flocked (like a velvet) and sueded, but not
particularly soft to the touch. There’s a bar pattern woven in at wide
intervals, of a single thread each of charcoal, brick red, and white.
And did you think I forgot? The winners of our commenter drawing from my birthday party post last week are...
For the $25 Amazon gift card,
veedham!
and for one of my print books (your choice),
mamafrog!
Ladies, if you would, please contact me via marissa @ marissadoyle dot com (removes spaces etc.etc.) so we can arrange for you to receive your prizes. Thank you all for commenting...and reading NineteenTeen!
(Oh, and a postscript: this is the last week
By Jove will be on sale for 99 cents, so if you've been dithering on picking it up, now's the time to grab it before the price goes back up. You can snag it at
Amazon, Barnes and Noble, Apple's iBookstore, and
Kobo, as well as at
Book View Cafe's own store (in both epub and mobi formats.)
